- Distance: 26 miles
- Elevation range: 8600′ to 12,150′
- Route: Caltopo, P3
This is part 3 of a series of trips exploring the Cathedral Range in Yosemite National Park. In Part 1, we explored some of the peaks southwest of Cathedral Peak: Matthes Crest, Columbia Finger, Tressider Peak, Tenaya Peak. In Part 2, we explored the immediate vicinity east and south of Cathedral Peak: Matthes Lake, Nelson Lake, Rafferty Peak, Johnson Peak. In this third installment, we venture east to Ireland Lake and Vogelsang.
I first visited Ireland Lake in 2013, and became enamored by the landscape. The lake sits in a granite bowl carved aeons ago by glaciers, and it is surrounded on three sides by granite walls and slopes. On the north shore, there is a vast, grassy, rocky bench devoid of trees and shrubs with unbostructed views to Kuna Crest and Mt. Conness. Every year since then, I have wanted to return to this area, but for the past 3 years, something has always interfered with my plans.
This year, finally, I return to Ireland Lake. I bring Rama and Giovanni with me, whom I have previously sent to Ireland Lake. Each of them, on different occasions, took over my cancelled trips. During this trip, we will attempt to summit Amelia Earhart Peak, Parsons Peak, and Vogelsang Peak. This turns out to be an overly ambitions plan.
It is 0830; there is daylight, but the sun remains hidden behind Kuna Crest. The trail will take us through Lyell Canyon for about 6 miles. It is a pleasant stroll on level terrain without any significant elevation gain. But, it is cold. The temperature is below 30°F in the forested sections of trail. There is frost on patches of ground vegetation and frozen puddles. We hurry along with 25+ pound packs and puffy jackets on, trying to keep warm. Even then, I am shivering; every breath is a chilly blast of air into my lungs.
After a couple of miles, the forest thins out, and we can see the sun. We stop at an open meadow and bask in the sun’s rays. Sunshine, oh so welcome. We see ground squirrels standing guard at the entrances to their dwellings, perhaps also warming up under the sun, perhaps simply curious about the intruders photographing them.
Giovanni practicing his craft
Belding’s ground squirrel (Spermophilus beldingi)
The wind was blowing last night until about midnight. There were no clouds, the sky was peppered with stars, and the Milky Way was visible. I was tempted to get up and take photos, but I remained toasty in my sleeping bag.
In the morning, after a quick breakfast, we continued on our journey off-trail. We started the day with an easy hike up granite slabs to the base of Parsons Peak. The next 700′ took us over a talus field to the summmit (12,147′). The views from the summit are incredible: Lewis Creek and many unnamed lakes to the west; Parsons Plateau to the northwest; Ireland Lake to the north.
Ireland Lake
Parsons Plateau
Rama absorbing the landscape
Half Dome
Francisco, Rama, Giovanni
We continue our hike on Parsons Plateau enjoying the vistas all the way to Vogelsang Pass, where we connect with a maintained trail and descend into Vogelsang Lake.
Gallison Lake
Part of our original plan included a side trip to Vogelsang Peak. This did not materialize; we were tired and eager to get back to the car before sunset. We continue hiking on the Rafferty Creek Trail to Tuolumne Meadows. Past Tuolumne Pass, the trail becomes a super highway, and we pick up speed. We reach the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River as the sun begins its descent over the horizon. The temperature is quickly dropping, but we stay warm with a hot cup of apple cider prepared by Rama.
One more mile before we reach the car, and then 2 hours to pizza to cap off one more amazing trip in Yosemite.
Clark’s nutcracker (Nucifraga columbiana)
California mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus californicus)
Rafferty Creek Trail
Lyell Fork Tuolumne River
pacorios 