- Distance: 17 miles
- Elevation range: 8600′ to 11,100′
- Route: Caltopo, P2
This is part 2 of a series of trips exploring the Cathedral Range in Yosemite National Park. Part 1 took the reader past Cathedral Peak and Matthes Crest, to Columbia Finger, Tressider Peak and Tenaya Peak, and ended at Lower Cathedral Lake. In this journey, we head off-trail to Nelson Lake and attempt the summits of Rafferty Peak and Johnson Peak.
I was accompanied on this trip by Hai, Rama, and Radwan. For Hai and Rama, it was their first time backpacking off-trail, but it won’t be their last. I am glad they enjoyed venturing off the beaten path and are looking forward to more such adventures.
We begin at the south boundary of the Tuolumne Meadows Campground. The maintained trail meanders through thick forest and eventually parallels Unicorn Creek. After 1.5 miles, one is greeted with a picturesque view of Elizabeth Lake and Unicorn Peak. Travel beyond this point will be off-trail over granite slabs, expansive meadows, scree, sand, and talus.
Unicorn Creek
Elizabeth Lake, Unicorn Peak
Our first objective is the saddle south of Unicorn Peak. The 1100′ climb is exhausting, but the views are rewarding. All troubles, worries, aches, and pains vanish.
Elizabeth Lake
From here, we continue past Cockscomb towards Matthes Lake. The first obstacle is a talus field which requires frequent use of both hands to traverse. The terrain then eases to granite slabs as we head towards and around the side face of Cockscomb. From the south ridge of Cockscomb, we see the east face of Matthes Crest across the ravine and Matthes Lake way in the distance.
Hai negotiating a talus field
Matthes Lake, Matthes Crest
We descend 1000′ on tricky granite slabs and ledges which try our footing, balance, and core. At the meadow, we break for lunch. We are surrounded by granite walls, wildflowers, and the gurgling sound of a creek flowing into Matthes Lake. The temperature drops about 10°F and rain drops fall sporadically.
We crest a ridge of granite into another ravine, across Echo Creek, and into Nelson Lake where we will camp and spend the night. The sun is out, a light breeze blows now and then, the air temperature is mid-60s, but I cannot convince myself to dive into the lake. I feel like I will freeze as soon as I break the water surface. All I can manage is wading in knee-deep water to wash and massage my tired feet on the sandy and gravelly lake bottom.
Echo Creek
Nelson Lake
After dinner, we climbed to a nearby ridge. We were treated to beautiful display of color as the sun was setting in the horizon.
Sunset at Nelson Lake
The next morning, we walk around the lake shore. It is quiet, there is no wind, and the surface of the lake is a mirror. We leave Nelson Lake and hike up the southwest slope of Rafferty Peak (11,110′) to its summit. The views are incredible: to the west, Nelson Lake; to the north, Reymann Lake; to the south, many lakes surrounding Fletcher Peak.
The next objective is the summit of Johnson Peak (11,064′). From the south ridge, it is easy hiking on granite slabs, until the last few hundred feet where we encounter car-sized boulders interspersed in thick shrubs. Augmenting the experience, there is a westerly wind pushing from the west and sapping all warmth from our bodies. We decide to skip the last 100′ to the summit. The views are no less scenic from this point.
Yosemite High Country
View west from Johnson Peak
After descending Johson Peak, we continue north towards Tuolumne Meadows. Along the way, we encounter a series of alpine meadows covered with fields of lupine. We take one last break at a creek to filter water, fuel up on snacks, and wash up a bit before descending into the forest and back to the cars.
Hai, Radwan, Rama, Francisco
Fields of lupine
pacorios 