- 5.6 YDS, 700′, 5 pitches
The Southeast Buttress on Cathedral Peak is one of the most popular climbing routes in Tuolumne Meadows. The approach is a 3 mile walk from the Cathedral Lakes TH off Tioga Road. Ken and I started hiking at 0530 hoping to reach the start of the climbing route before it became too crowded. Along the way, the sun rose over the horizon and painted the granite landscape with its morning light.
Early morning view of Cockscomb
When we reached the start of the route, there was already one group of climbers on pitch 1, and a second group on pitch 2. Most of the route was visible from this vantage point: 700′ of crack and face climbing to the summit of Cathedral Peak (10,910′).
Looking towards the summit from the base of Cathedral Peak
The photo below is from the previous weekend. The yellow lines indicate climbers which numbered at least 20 on that day. The blue and red lines show the breakdown of the 5 pitches:
- P1: easy face climbing and a hand crack to a tree
- P2: crack and more face climbing to another tree
- P3: face climbing to the start of a chimney
- P4: off-width crack, chimney, and face climbing to a large ledge
- P5: more face climbing, some hand cracks, and scrambling to the summit block
The climbing is relatively easy. The face is peppered with cracks and features which provide many options for reaching the summit. However, the elevation and exposure certainly add a factor of excitement to this climb.
Southeast Buttress route on Cathedral Peak
Along the way, the views to the east and south never cease to amaze.
Ominous clouds over Mount Data
Budd Lake
When we reached the summit block, we could see the Yosemite high country to the west. In the immediate proximity sits Eichorn Pinnacle (another popular climbing route), Tenaya Peak, and Lower Cathedral Lake. In the far distance sits Mt. Hoffman (10,850′).
We spent about 30 minutes on the summit block, taking a break, enjoying the views, fueling up on snacks, and figuring out how to descend from the summit block. The descent from Cathedral Peak is on the west side, down a steep granite slope, north over talus, across a saddle to the east slope, and down more talus and scree on an unmaintained use trail.
Ken descending on the north side of Cathedral Peak
One last shot of Cathedral Peak
Cockscomb, Budd Lake
We reached the car at about 2030, capping off a 15 hour day with cold refreshing coconut water, as the last rays of light colored the domes of Tuolumne Meadows.
Lambert Dome, Mount Dana
pacorios 